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Top Brethren things to do on a snow day

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6. Watch a video recording of a webinar or event you missed. It’s free! What could be more Brethren than that?

5. Sew on buttons. Sure, your winter coat still works with one button and a belt (speaking from personal experience), but maybe you will be warmer being able to close all those holes.

4. Plan your garden. Order seeds or plants after you make a few decisions. Will you clear a new spot? Rotate what grows where? Create raised beds? Put in a rain barrel or drip hose? (How did simple living get so complicated?!)

3. Lay out a small four square court with masking tape on a countertop. If you can’t find a little rubber bouncy ball, try making a ball. You had to be saving those rubber bands from the newspaper—and the broccoli—for something!

2. Make snow ice cream:  canned milk, vanilla and sugar mixed with a bowl of the cleanest snow you can find. Yes, we Brethren believe in a land flowing with milk and honey… it’s just that the milk and honey have to be below the freezing point.

1. Shovel for a neighbor… or a stranger… or even your dog. You know, whatever you do for the least of these, you do for Jesus!

What would you add to this list?

–Jan Fischer Bachman

5 thoughts on “Top Brethren things to do on a snow day”

7.  Jill said:  LOVE that you included our traditional family treat of snow-ice-cream! Thought it hilarious a few weeks ago to see an actual RECIPE posted online for it.

8.  Marge said: Make Valentine cookies from scratch to give to someone you love, tomorrow being Valentine’s Day!

9.  Bekah said:  You know all those great fruits and veggies you canned/froze last summer? Have your own pot luck of local foods! (if your electricity is out refer to #2 and just make multiple snow ice cream flavors)

10.  Laura Stone said:  Have your own personal hymn sing… or better yet, invite neighbors over for hot chocolate and singing.

11.  Enten said: Hmmm… I’d add…Read a good book (The Good Book would be a good choice!)

12.  Mediate on God’s incredible world

13.  Play string with a cat.

14.  Peruse the seed catalogs

15.  Appreciate the beauty of cold snowy day!

Plant Lovers’ Almanac: Questions about weeds

By Denise Ellsworth
Special to the Beacon Journal

Published: January 17, 2014 – 12:47 PM

 Hairy bittercress

Hairy bittercress is one of the most common cool-season weeds in our landscapes. (Denise Ellsworth/Ohio State University)

Q: In spring, my garden beds are full of a tiny weed with white flowers. The leaves are divided, and grow in a rosette. I never used to see them, but now see them everywhere. What is it?

A: Hairy bittercress is the name of this tiny member of the mustard family. Rarely seen about a decade ago, it is now one of the most common cool-season weeds in our landscapes. Plants and seeds are often introduced to the landscape as hitchhikers in container plants.

Hairy bittercress begins as a low-growing rosette, followed by a flower stalk, producing small white flowers and eventually growing to anywhere from 1 to 8 inches. Flowering begins even as snow covers the ground, and continues through spring. Seed capsules explode when ripe, dispersing seeds into surrounding soils.

Bittercress can be easily removed by pulling, just be sure to remove plants before seed capsules have matured to avoid further spread.

Q: I don’t understand the idea of winter weeds. Why do I have to worry about weeds when there’s snow on the ground?

A: Although a dusting of snow is enough to hide the evidence, winter weeds are hard at work right now in the garden. Bittercress, groundsel and annual bluegrass are three pesky winter weeds. Unaffected by the cold, they rest under snow while bitter winds blow, waiting for the slightest rise in temperature to flower and produce seed.

Take advantage of the next winter thaw to pluck these pesky weeds out of landscape beds before they can flower and set more seed. Even though they are small, winter weeds compete with desirable crops for soil nutrients.

Q: My lawn is free from dandelions, and it greens up every year, but I’m not happy with the texture of the grass. I have coarse grass blades in patches that want to lay down instead of growing upright. These patches are darker green, and seems to hold up better to summer stress. Every year I have more and more of this grass taking over the lawn. What can I do to even out my grass?

A: The weed you describe sounds like tall fescue. This weedy grass is not desirable in the lawn because of the characteristics you’ve described: it’s coarse, it grows erratically, and it is often a deeper shade of green than the rest of the turf, making it stand out. Unfortunately, there is no easy method for dealing with tall fescue in the lawn.

In the case of dandelions and other broadleaf weeds, there are many herbicides available which will selectively kill those weeds while leaving the turf grass unaffected. Since tall fescue is a grass, there is no product that can kill it while leaving the rest of the lawn intact. Some homeowners choose to selectively kill patches of tall fescue with a nonselective herbicide, then reseed the area.

If a lawn is heavily overgrown with tall fescue, the only real solution is to tear up the lawn and start over. This may be more cost and effort than you’re willing to put into the lawn; only you can evaluate how unsightly the lawn is, and whether it’s worth the investment to rid it of tall fescue.

Q: How can I control aegopodium in my flower beds? It’s taking over.

A: Also known as bishop’s weed, aegopodium is a creeping ground cover that can quickly take over entire flower beds. The variegated bishop’s weed is less aggressive than the green ground cover. Once the green bishop’s weed has crept into flower beds, it can be very difficult to eradicate. Pulling the plant isn’t enough, since new sprouts are quickly produced off the roots. Digging out the plant, root and all, or treatment with a nonselective herbicide can give good results. Both practices may need to be repeated to eliminate the planting.

In severe infestations, desirable perennials may need to be dug out, and the bishop’s weed teased out of their roots. After the entire bed is killed with a nonselective herbicide, the perennials can be replanted. Check the bed frequently, and treat any emerging sprouts of bishop’s weed with a nonselective herbicide.

Q: We have “onion grass” spreading throughout the yard. At first it was only a few tufts, but each year the amount increases. We have been told that there is nothing that can get rid of it. It is impossible to pull up as leaving only one tiny bulb underground will continue its spread. Is there any way to rid our yard of this pesky weed?

A: Wild onion and wild garlic are very tough weeds. Their texture and rapid growth rate make them unsightly in the lawn. With repeated applications, a broadleaf herbicide with 2,4-D may offer some control.

The smooth leaf texture makes it difficult for herbicides to adhere to the plant, so a spreader-sticker product may be necessary in conjunction with the herbicide. In isolated areas, a nonselective herbicide such as Roundup may be used to kill the weed. The area will then have to be replanted with grass.

Q: I’ve moved into a new house, and some of my beds are infested with Canada thistle. The previous owner said she sprayed with Roundup, but it didn’t kill the thistle. Is Canada thistle resistant to Roundup? What should I do?

A: Canada thistle is one of the worst perennial weeds to deal with in landscape beds, right up there with quack grass. What makes these two weeds so difficult to manage is the fact that they spread by underground stems called rhizomes. These rhizomes make the weed function as one huge colony, so that instead of dealing with an individual plant everywhere you see a sprout, you’re actually dealing with an underground monster.

One application of glyphosate, the active ingredient in Roundup, may have little effect on a large Canada thistle colony. The weed isn’t resistant, but the plant has mammoth reserves and can continue to sprout. With persistent application, however, glyphosate can effectively take out Canada thistle. This will likely take several applications and several months.

If the Canada thistle is growing right in among desirable plants, your job is much more challenging. Drift or overspray of the herbicide will kill any desirable plants, so great care must be taken to protect surrounding plants.

An effective method used by gardeners and professionals is to use a chemical-resistant glove, available at hardware stores, covered by a cotton garden glove. Carefully apply the herbicide to the cotton glove, then rub the herbicide on to the weeds. Wait a few weeks to see where new sprouts emerge, then repeat this procedure until all weeds have been killed.

Other options are available to control Canada thistle, but pulling is not one of them. Pulling Canada thistle is like harvesting broccoli; everywhere you cut a piece off, small new sprouts will emerge.

Large areas can be covered with plastic, thick newspaper or landscape fabric to smother the weed. This may take some time and persistence as new sprouts may emerge in different locations.

Learn what small weed seedlings look like so that you’re sure to eliminate Canada thistle seedlings from the garden as soon as they’re seen. This will hopefully prevent any future weed nightmares.

Q: Creeping Charlie has moved into my lawn. How can I get rid of it?

A: Ground ivy, also known as creeping Charlie, is a vigorous perennial weed of landscape beds and turf areas. Ground ivy’s creeping stems take root at leaf nodes, making this weed difficult to remove by hand, especially once the weed has moved into lawn areas. Crushed stems and leaves emit a disagreeable, mint-like odor.

Introduced as a gardening plant for hanging baskets, ground ivy escaped from cultivation and is now a common landscape weed. Small pieces, cut when mowing, can take root, spreading ground ivy throughout the lawn and garden.

A broadleaf herbicide, applied in fall, can help to control this pest in lawn areas, although repeated applications may be necessary. Hand pulling or spot herbicide applications work best in landscape beds.

Learn more about weeds at the Holden Arboretum from 1 to 3 p.m. Feb. 8. I’ll be teaching this class to share some of my favorite weeds. We’ll focus on identification, natural history and management strategies for some of the most common weeds in Ohio. Registration is $15. Contact the Holden Arboretum for more information or to register at www.holdenarb.org, or 440-946-4400.

Denise Ellsworth directs the honeybee and native pollinator education program for the Ohio State University. If you have questions about caring for your garden, contact her at 330-263-3700 or click on the Ask Denise link on her blog at www.osugarden.com.

Tomatoes grow in winter in Lodi

By Mary Beth Breckenridge

Beacon Journal home writer

Published: January 10, 2014 – 12:20 PM

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LED lights nourish young Kale plants in the CropKing greenhouse on in Lodi. (Phil Masturzo/Akron Beacon Journal)

Lodi: You don’t often see tomatoes ripening on the vine on a January day in Northeast Ohio. But you do at CropKing. Even as a snowstorm was icing roads last week, Natalie Bumgarner was plucking a few red fruits from tomato vines that snaked up support cords in the Lodi company’s experimental greenhouse. The flavor of the tomatoes couldn’t rival that of one warmed by the late summer sun, but “they’re going to be better tasting than what you get in the grocery store,” said Bumgarner, the company’s horticulturist.

CropKing specializes in hydroponics, a growing method that uses nutrient-enriched water rather than soil. The company sells hydroponic systems and supplies, mostly to commercial growers but also to hobby gardeners.

Its experimental greenhouse allows the company to test new plant varieties so it can fine-tune the micronutrient and pH levels of the nutrient solutions it recommends for those plants, and it recently started researching the use of various types of artificial lights to supplement sunlight. The greenhouse also provides space to grow plants that serve as guinea pigs when the company trains commercial clients on the plants’ care.

That’s where the tomato plants came in. Although employees had just pulled out the last of the trial tomato plants growing in the experimental greenhouse, they were still nurturing a cluster of plants used to teach growers such maintenance tasks as removing suckers and managing plants that can grow dozens of feet long.

The tomato plants are quirky looking, their long vines looped again and again around buckets where their roots grow in perlite. The ends of the vines are trained up strings attached to an overhead track, and fruits hang from the vertical growth in various stages of ripeness.

The plants don’t get enough sunlight this time of year to produce the level of sugar that gives tomatoes that summertime sweetness, explained Bumgarner, who holds a doctorate from Ohio State University. But the vine-ripened fruit is still sweeter than commercially grown tomatoes found in stores this time of year, which usually are shipped green from warmer climates and then ripened with ethylene gas.

Tomatoes and cucumbers — both plants that demand a lot of sunlight — will continue to produce fruit in winter in a hydroponic greenhouse in this part of the country, but not enough to make commercial production economical, said Bumgarner and Marilyn Brentlinger, who owns CropKing along with her sons, Mark and Paul. But the company’s employees can still enjoy both kinds of veggies from the experimental greenhouse, along with the lettuce, kale and other leafy vegetables that grow more readily in a greenhouse environment in winter.

CropKing doesn’t sell any of the vegetables it produces, Brentlinger said. Instead, it shares some with its staff and donates the rest to local food-related charities.

Granted, growing tomatoes in the dead of winter might be overly ambitious for most home gardeners. Nevertheless, Brentlinger said those gardeners can still use hydroponics to raise an array of fresh produce throughout the year, either in their homes or in small backyard greenhouses.

CropKing’s hobby hydroponic systems use either PVC channels or specially designed growing pots called Bato Buckets.

The channel system is typically used for leafy crops, such as lettuce, spinach, kale and herbs. The channels look much like lidded gutters, with openings in the top — 8 inches apart — to accommodate plants growing in small plugs of a soilless growing medium.

The nutrient solution flows through each channel, slowly enough to allow the roots to absorb what they need. The solution also flows from one channel to the next before returning to a small tank to be recirculated by a submersible pump.

Multiple channels are arranged in a configuration that’s tilted slightly in two directions, so gravity moves the water through each channel and from one channel to the next.

CropKing’s smallest channel system, which is a little more than 4½ feet square, accommodates 36 plants and could even fit in a kitchen, Bumgarner said. It’s priced at $375 with free shipping, but Brentlinger said local residents can get a discount if they pick up the equipment instead of having it shipped.

Bato Buckets are used for plants that produce fruits, such as tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers and melons. The plants are grown one or two to a bucket, depending on how much space their roots need.

The square buckets hold perlite granules, which Brentlinger said create spaces that allow both nutrient solution and air to reach the roots. A timer determines when the solution is added to the buckets via drip irrigation emitters.

A 10-bucket system costs $695.  Brentlinger said CropKing is also getting “quite a bit of interest” in its heated hobby greenhouse, which at 12 by 20 feet is big enough to accommodate six 4-foot channels and 10 buckets. That’s enough growing space for 36 leafy plants and either 10 cucumber plants or 20 tomato plants.

The greenhouse comes with a hydroponic system, a heater, a fan and a wet wall, a feature that promotes cooling through water evaporation. It costs $4,500 and would use about $30 to $40 a month in energy to run — about the cost of a hot tub, Brentlinger said.

The products can be ordered via its website, www.cropking.com. Brentlinger’s sons also have a spin-off retail company, Indoor Gardens, which sells hydroponic supplies at stores in Akron and Columbus.

In the coldest months, Brentlinger recommended using the hobby greenhouse to grow cold-tolerant crops such as spinach and peas, since the energy needed to heat the greenhouse enough to grow tomatoes and cucumbers wouldn’t make economic sense.

The greenhouse can also be used to start warm-weather crops early and keep them producing long past the first frost.

“If you can grow [tomatoes] from March to November,” she said, “you definitely have increased your growing season in Ohio.”

Mary Beth Breckenridge can be reached at 330-996-3756 or mbrecken@thebeaconjournal.com. You can also become a fan on Facebook at http://tinyurl.com/mbbreck, follow her on Twitter @MBBreckenridge and read her blog at www.ohio.com/blogs/mary-beth.

Church prayer gardens

Lexington church gardens provide spiritual nourishment

By Lu-Ann Farrar

Herald-Leader Staff WriterJune 15, 2012 

If you come to the garden to be alone, you are not alone.  Since ancient times, people have sought and found a place to pray or meditate in nature. Gardens as a part of religious life go back as far as 313 to St. Antony, who cultivated a garden so he wouldn’t be a burden to others. Early religious communities who lived in self-imposed isolation relied on their gardens for survival. Henry David Thoreau wrote in his journal, “Nature is full of genius, full of the divinity; so that not a snowflake escapes its fashioning hand.”

Faith communities arolexington gardensund Lexington provide gardens — sometimes in the middle of noisy downtown — that are a quiet place to sit, meditate and pray.

“You want something beautiful and peaceful that provides for meditation … with the whole purpose of having quiet, with connecting to the spiritual side of things,” said Thomas Barnes, an extension wildlife specialist and professor at the University of Kentucky College of Agriculture’s forestry department. Barnes is also author of The Gift of Creation: Images From Scripture and Earth.

Generally, said Barnes, a prayerful place will often have “different stops, with a statue, benches, if you’ve got more land; rocks or fallen trees to make a place to sit.”

Barnes said when designing a prayerful place, incorporate the flora already there. “If you’ve got wooded land, then you can develop woodland flowers. … If a space is small, you can do some intensive things, like putting in a water feature.”  Often, church prayer gardens are created by individuals particularly interested in gardening, either as a vocation or an avocation.

At Rosemont Baptist Church, the garden was developed by Erma Burrus, a member of the church for more than 40 years, and her late husband, Paul.

Paul Burrus had been a research agronomist at the University of Kentucky and the U.S. Department of Agriculture for 54 years. Together, they developed the space, which has hosted weddings as well as provided spiritual respite.

“It turned out to be the light of our lives,” said Erma Burrus. “It really was a blessing. We feel like we’ve contributed something that brings joy to everybody. My goal now is to put in more perennials so that legacy keeps going.”

At Faith Lutheran Church, Ann Sabbatine and her friend Eileen Will have worked in the church’s garden.  “She and I have pretty much worked at it by ourselves. It’s just kind of been our thing.”  The garden has been a memorial for family members of both women. Sabbatine’s mother died in 1997, and she and her family thought a garden would be a fitting tribute. When Will’s husband, Bradford, died in 2007, she asked that memorial contributions be made to the Faith Lutheran prayer garden.  Sabbatine’s father died in 2011, and with gifts in his honor, the garden has expanded to include a statue of St. Francis. Among the plants they included is Jacob’s ladder, “because it sounded churchy,” said Sabbatine, and lilies from Easter. Any geraniums left over from decorating the church for Pentecost go into the garden.

At Mary Queen of the Holy Rosary school, the garden provides a place for children to experience God’s wonder.

Linda Rukavina, kindergarten teacher at Mary Queen, said she uses the garden often. “We try to infuse a sense of thankfulness, respect and awareness into everything. … The garden is wonderful for observing the seasons,” said Rukavina. The students put out birdseed, plant tulips, weed and generally care for the garden. The trees on the grounds are home to “squirrels, moths, butterflies, all sorts of mourning doves, cardinals, robins, blue jays, little sparrows. Migratory birds come through. We often have a few beautiful hawks, bunnies.”

These gardens are all open to the public and are visited frequently. But prayerful places are not limited to church gardens.

Barnes identified one: “In Central Kentucky, the most meditative spot is on the top point at the overlook at Raven Run. You can see columbine, the Palisades, birds swooping. I always see people sitting there just being quiet, I almost always see somebody there.”

Wherever the location, prayer gardens can be special places. For Erma Burrus and her late husband, the garden was “something that both of us just loved. When we went early in the morning, after we finished, he liked to sit and look into the garden. Everything is so beautiful that God made, and he just couldn’t understand how people could not be believers.”
Read more here: http://www.kentucky.com/2012/06/15/2225571/quiet-spots-for-prayer-and-medit
ation.html#storylink=cpy

Community Garden Checklist

Community Garden Checklist

If you’re looking for an activity that people of all ages can enjoy, start a community garden. Rallying support from your neighbors, friends or community-led organizations is a great way to start a garden in your back yard — so to speak.

Urban communities often find patches of land to host community gardens, and invite participants to help plant, harvest and enjoy the produce — and in turn incorporate the necessary fruits, vegetables, vitamins and nutrients they need to stay healthy into their diets. The USDA’s People’s Garden initiative offers lots of useful resources and a supportive network for both first-time planters and seasoned harvesters.  

Before you start a garden of your own, read and download this step-by-step guide, which offers important information about how to safely grow your own fruits and vegetables with others in your community:

Engage Your Community

Begin by bringing people and different organizations together to learn which issues are important to your community. Discuss how a community garden – whether a communal space or individual plots – could serve the needs of the community. If a community garden will benefit the community, build on this momentum by holding regular meetings to collaborate on ideas and goals. Develop a plan of action. Get people energized and organized.

Identify Resources

Forming local partnerships is an excellent way to leverage resources and gain access to needed materials, tools, funding, volunteers, and technical assistance. USDA’s People’s Garden website has how-to videos and databases filled with garden-based learning curricula, free seed and funding sources, and healthy gardening practices. You can call on an Extension Master Gardener volunteer in your area to help with gardening challenges. The long-term success of your community garden will depend a great deal on relationships with partners. And be sure to check out the Community Garden Resource Guide.

Choose a Site

Across the country, community gardens are becoming an anchor for neighborhood revitalization. Community gardens range in purpose from increasing access to fresh, healthy food in rural towns to providing safe green spaces where youth can play in urban cities. What type of community garden will your neighborhood be planting? Knowing this information will narrow your search for a site. If growing food, find a location that receives at least six hours of direct sunlight per day with easy access to water. Check if the land you would be growing on has proper drainage. Once you identify an ideal site, find out who owns the land. Contact the landowner and discuss next steps which may include obtaining permission through written agreement or lease and getting liability insurance.  

Garden Healthy

Before you start planting, it is important to research the history and past uses of your chosen site. Once the past uses have been determined, take samples of the soil and have them analyzed to find out soil type and quality. EPA has step-by-step guidelines on how to do this. Consult with your state environmental agency, local health department, or county’s Cooperative Extension office to learn how to take a soil sample and to determine what kinds of samples you should take. The quality of the soil can have an effect on the design of your garden.

Design Your Garden

Every community garden is different based on its specific size, location, and mission. Design your garden to fit the needs of the community it serves. Consider factors such as age-appropriate design, accessibility, protection from animals or vandalism, storage of tools, and space to gather. Incorporate sustainable gardening techniques such as: using native plants, composting, mulching, applying an integrated pest management approach, creating a habitat for wildlife, using water wisely or installing a rain barrel. Use the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map to determine which plants will thrive in your part of the country.

Get Growing

Start gardening and implementing your community garden program. Once the project is up and running, let everyone know! Gain greater community support by welcoming visitors and sharing updates on how the neighborhood is benefiting from the garden’s existence. Over time, revisit the plan and make any needed changes based on lessons learned or feedback from partners and neighbors. Remember to plan ahead so that the garden will continue to grow for seasons to come.

Information provided courtesy of USDA’s People’s Garden Initiative. For more gardening resources visit www.usda.gov/peoplesgarden.

How to Keep Food Safe in a Power Outage

Posted December 18, 2013 | 0 comments

By Kathy Bernard, Food Safety Education Staff, USDA Food Safety & Inspection Service

Flicker, flicker, flicker—dark! The lights have just gone off, and the search for candles and matches has begun. But even if you can see by candlepower, there are other dangers lurking in the dark that you can’t see: bacteria that will begin growing in perishable foods when the electricity is off.

Winter storm power outageDuring the winter, severe ice and snow storms play havoc with outdoor utility lines, and storing food safely becomes a challenge if the power goes off. The U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) recommends these steps to follow before and during a power outage.

Prepare Ahead of Time

  • Appliance thermometers. Make sure you keep appliance thermometers in both the refrigerator and the freezer. That’s the best way to be sure that your food is safe after a power outage. Safe temperatures are 40 °F or lower in the refrigerator; 0°F or lower in the freezer.
  • Freeze water in one-quart plastic storage bags or small containers. They are small enough to fit in around the food in the refrigerator and freezer to help keep food cold and won’t make a mess when the ice melts. Don’t fill them too full. Because water expands when it freezes, the bags might split. Make extra ice at home.
  • Freeze refrigerated items such as leftovers, milk and fresh meat and poultry that you may not need immediately. This helps keep them at a safe temperature longer.
  • Dry ice or block ice. Know where you can get them.
  • Have coolers on hand to keep refrigerator food cold if the power will be out for more than 4 hours.
  • Group foods together in the freezer; this helps the food stay cold longer. They form an “igloo” to protect each other.
  • Don’t put food outdoors in ice or snow because wild animals may be looking for a meal, and when the sun comes out it may warm your food to an unsafe temperature.
  • Stock up on ready-to-eat foods. Be sure to have a few days’ of foods that do not require cooking or cooling.

When the Power Goes Out

  • Keep the refrigerator and freezer doors closed as much as possible. A refrigerator will keep food cold for about 4 hours if the door is kept closed.
  • A full freezer will hold its temperature for about 48 hours (24 hours if half-full).
  • Place frozen meat and poultry on a tray so that if they begin thawing, their juices will not drip on other foods.
  • Buy dry or block ice if the power is going to be out for a long time. Ice will keep the refrigerator as cold as possible. Fifty pounds of dry ice should keep a fully-stocked 18-cubic-feet freezer cold for two days.

When Power Comes Back On

  • Check the temperature inside your refrigerator and freezer. Discard any perishable food (such as meat, poultry, seafood, eggs, or leftovers) that has been above 40 °F for two hours or more.
  • Check each item separately. Throw out any food that has an unusual odor, color, or texture, or feels warm to the touch.
  • Check for ice crystals in frozen food. The food in your freezer that partially or completely thawed may be safely refrozen if it still contains ice crystals or is at 40 °F or below.
  • Never taste a food to decide if it’s safe.
  • When in doubt, throw it out.

See these charts to help you evaluate specific foods

For more information about food safety in an emergency, check out these resources:

Questions? Ask Karen, USDA’s virtual food safety representative, is available 24/7 at AskKaren.gov. Call the USDA Meat and Poultry Hotline weekdays between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m. ET at 1-888-MPHotline (1-888-674-6854)

New garden project this spring

VLUU L100, M100  / Samsung L100, M100

Eastwood Church will be digging up the land behind the church for a community garden along with available plots for individuals from the church wanting to do gardening for themselves. We hope to encourage interaction between individuals of various age groups working together to learn the art of gardening and preserving food.

This is an opportunity to volunteer your time and efforts to help provide food for the community groups that provide to those in need of food.

We encourage you to share your ideas with us as we begin to make plans for this garden.